Mt. Makalu 8463m. Expedition

Autumn
Fixed Departure: 07 September, 2018


Location: Asia, Nepal (Khumbu/Tibet, China)
Himalayan Range: Mahalangur Himal
Height: 8463m. - (27,766 ft)
Latitude: 27º 53’ 21” N
Longitude: 87º 05’ 19” E
Trip Duration: 40, 55 Days
First Ascent: May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy
Normal Ascent Route: West Face, North Face
Easiest Route: Snow/Ice climb
Grade: Strenuous High
Caravan Route: Kathmandu - Tumlingtar - Chichila - Num - Yak Kharka - Makalu Base Camp - Tumlingtar - Kathmandu

Mount Makalu is one of the harder, 5th tallest among the eight thousand mountain and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world for the climbing activities. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. Makalu is the only Nepalese 8,000m. peak which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions.

Mt. Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, G. Magnone and Sirdar Gyaltsen Norbu summited the next day successfully, followed by Bouvier, S. Coupe, Leroux and A. Vialatteon the 17th. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route.

Climbing Route: Mt. Makalu has fixed five routes by every expedition team and four variations along with other interesting opportunities like the West Face, the Northeast from Nepal and North Flanks from Tibet. Our trek follows one of the most remote and unfrequented areas of Nepal. Starting to fly to Biratnagar and drive to Hile where we start to walk towards Arun River, we walk through the snow, rain and cloud prone Kauma. Base Camp is just south of the snout of the Barun Glacier at an elevation of 4823m. Finally, after the climbing of Mt. Makalu expedition, our trip will finish at Tumlingtar plateau where we take plane to fly in to Kathmandu directly.

Expedition Itinerary: A

Hotel/Lodges/Camping
35 Days Trek/Climbing
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu and 34 Nights Camping
Best Season: Spring & Autumn

April 01 Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
April 02 Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu, Preparation for Expedition.
April 03 Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
April 04 Day 04: Kathmandu – Biratnagar by flight then drive to Hile 1850m.
April 05 Day 05: Hile – Mangmaya.
April 06 Day 06: Mangmaya – Surtibari.
April 07 Day 07: Surtibari – Tumlingtar 3900m.
April 08 Day 08: Tumlingtar – Khandbari 1036m.
April 09 Day 09: Khandbari – Bhotebas.
April 10 Day 10: Bhotebas – Gogone 2185m.
April 11 Day 11: Gogone – Num.
April 12 Day 12: Num – Tashi Gaon.
April 13 Day 13: Tashigaon – Khongma – La.
April 14 Day 14: Khongma-La – Makalu Base Camp 5000m.
April 15- May 02 Day 15 – 32: Climbing period of Mt. Makalu 8,463m.
May 03 Day 33: Trek back to Numbuck.
May 04 Day 34: Numbuk – Khongma-La.
May 05 Day 35: Khongma-La – Seduwa.
May 06 Day 36: Seduwa – Chichila.
May 07 Day 37: Chichila – Tumlingtar and transfer to Tented Camp.
May 08 Day 38: Tumlingtar – Kathmandu by flight then transfer to Hotel.
May 09 Day 39: Free day in Kathmandu.
May 10 Day 40: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey.

Optional – Expedition Itinerary: B

Hotel/Lodges/Camping
48 Days Trek/Climbing
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu and 49 Nights Camping
Best Season: Spring & Autumn

April 01 Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
April 02 Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu, Preparation for Expedition.
April 03 Day 03: Official work for expedition and briefing at Ministry of Tourism.
April 04 Day 04: Kathmandu – Tumlingtar 285m. by flight then overnight.
April 05 Day 05: Tumlingtar – Kuwapani 1430m.
April 06 Day 06: Kuwapani – Chichila 1980m.
April 07 Day 07: Chichila – Num 1891m.
April 08 Day 08: Num – Seduwa 1500m.
April 09 Day 09: Seduwa – Tashi Gaun 2100m.
April 10 Day 10: Tashi Gaun – Khongma La (Danda) 3760m.
April 11 Day 11: Khongmadanda – Mumphuk.
April 12 Day 12: Mumhuk –Yangle Kharak.
April 13 Day 13: Trek to Merak.
April 14 Day 14: Merak –Hillary Base Camp 4800m.
April 15 Day 15: Sersung – Makalu Base Camp 4870m.  Set up camp and rest.
April 16 Day 16: Rest day.
April 17- May 16 Day 17-46: Climbing Period for Makalu 8463m.
May 17 Day 47: Reserve day for backpack preparation.
May 18 Day 48: Trek back to Mumbuck.
May 19 Day 49: Mumbuck – Khongma La (Danda).
May 20 Day 50: Khongma La – Seduwa.
May 21 Day 51: Seduwa – Chichila.
May 22 Day 52: Chichila – Tumlingtar, overnight at tented Camp.
May 23 Day 53: Tumlingtar – Kathmandu by flight then transfer to Hotel.
May 24 Day 54: Free day in Kathmandu.
May 25 Day 55: Last minute, transfer to airport for onward journey.

Optional Itinerray route: Our climb of Makalu begins with a combination of fixed-wing and helicopter flights from Kathmandu to Makalu Base Camp (15,745 feet/4,800 meters). Whether we fly through Lukla or Tumlingtar, the views and mountain scenery are incredible.

  1. If you have your own private group or team, please e-mail us to know the price and details of expedition.
  2. If you are alone and looking for a group to join then visit our fix-departure expedition information.


Note:

  • We will provide you the expedition cost as per your size of group or, as per your requirement for the expedition service. We request you to e-mail us or, use "Book Expedition" form for send us your message.
  • Above given cost does not include the climbing Sherpa’s food & fuel, tents, climbing gears and summit bonus above advance base camp.
  • Hiring a high altitude Sherpa does cost USD 3,300. This cost includes equipment allowances, daily wages, food and fuel up to base camp, insurance, flight to and from Kathmandu, sleeping tents at BC etc.

Service up to Base Camp on group joining basis: USD 8,200 Per Person.
Expedition Cost: Service up to summit: USD 16,100 Per Person.

Package Includes:

  • All land transportation by Car, Van, Hiace or, tourist Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up & drop).
  • 5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before & after expedition).
  • Schedule flight KTM/Biratnagar/Tumlingtar/KTM for member, Liaison officer & Expedition staffs. Itinerary A
  • Schedule flight Kathmandu/Tumlingtar/Kathmandu for member, Liaison officer & Expedition staffs. Itinerary B
  • Transport of food supply & expedition equipments to Base Camp & back.
  • Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp & back.
  • Base Camp single sleeping tent & Mattress for each member, BC staffs & Liaison officer.
  • All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table, chairs & cooking utensils for BC.
  • Food and fuel at Base Camp.
  • Service of Government Liaison officer.
  • Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
  • Equipments allowance, daily wages of cook, kitchen boys & Liaison officer.
  • Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer and porters.
  • Peak Permit fee of Mt. Makalu.
  • Makalu-Barun National Park and Conservation Area entrance fee.
  • Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
  • Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
  • 2 Expedition duffel bag or Barrel for each member.
  • Generator or Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
  • Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
  • Emergency medical oxygen at Base Camp.
  • Visa extension fee.
  • Agency service charge.

Package Excludes:

  • International airfare from/to your country.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport at upon arrival).
  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
  • Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
  • Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
  • High Tents above Base Camp.
  • High altitude food and fuel above Base Camp.
  • Oxygen & Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
  • Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, Walkie Talkies communication equipment & commercial filming.
  • International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
  • Tips and bonuses.
  • Garbage deposit.

Package Includes:

  • All land transportation by Car, Van, Hiace or, tourist Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up & drop).
  • 5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before & after expedition).
  • Schedule flight KTM/Biratnagar/Tumlingtar/KTM for member, Liaison officer & Expedition staffs. Itinerary A
  • Schedule flight KTM/Tumlingtar/KTM for member, Liaison officer & Expedition staffs. Itinerary B
  • Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp & back.
  • Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
  • All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table, chairs, cooking utensils for BC.
  • Base Camp single sleeping tent & Mattress for each member, BC staffs & Liaison officer.
  • Food and fuel at Base Camp.
  • Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
  • Service of Government Liaison officer.
  • Equipments allowance, wages of cook, kitchen boys & Liaison officer.
  • Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer & porters.
  • Peak Permit fee of Mt. Makalu.
  • Makalu-Barun National Park and Conservation Area entrance fee.
  • One high altitude Sherpa per climber to carry all food and gear to higher camps. Also assist the member during climb & summit attempt.
  • Common climbing equipment such as ropes, ice screws, ice bar, pitons, etc.
  • High altitude food.
  • High altitude fuel.
  • High altitude tents.
  • Per Person 50 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels allowed for expedition till Base Camp.
  • Per Person 40 KG. Expedition equipment’s luggage or, barrels is allowed for returned to Kathmandu.
  • 2 Expedition duffel bag or Barrel for each member.
  • Generator or, Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
  • Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
  • Emergency medical oxygen at Base Camp.
  • Visa extension fee.
  • Agency service charge.

Package Excludes:

  • International airfare from/to your country.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
  • Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
  • Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost luggage.
  • Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, Walkie Talkies, communication equipment & commercial filming.
  • Oxygen & Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
  • Tips and bonuses.
  • Garbage deposit fee.


Note: We suggest you to hire Heli Copter Charter flight for transport the whole gears needed for expedition from Kathmandu/Low Base Camp/Kathmandu due to the caravan route start from Tumlingtar or Hile.

Cultural Treks & Expedition offers personal equipment rentals for climber, who have limited cargo allowance with their airfare or, do not wish to purchase expensive expedition grade gear but rent it instead. Climber purchasing Base Camp Services only may choose to hire or, purchase high camp equipment. Please let us know in advance prior to your arrival so that we can meet your needs. The quoted cost are for the duration of the expedition and we provide original North Face, Marmot or, Ozark company brand tent only.

Equipment Rental or Purchase Price List:

Item Rentle Cost in USD Purchase Cost in USD
Expedition Tent USD 150.00 USD 300.00
Day Backpack (Rucksack -Small) USD 50.00 USD 150.00
Day Backpack (Rucksack -Large) USD 100.00 USD 300.00
Gas Stove USD 25.00 USD 100.00
Oxygen Bottle USD 350.00 USD 500.00
Oxygen mask and Regulator USD 250.00 USD 900.00
Sleeping Bag USD 100.00 USD 400.00
Down Jacket USD 100.00 USD 300.00
High Camp Goose Down Jacket USD 200.00 USD 500.00

Climbing Sherpa Fee: Per H.A. Sherpa USD 3,300 (if required by client for advance base camp service user)