Kyazo Ri 6186m. (Kyajo) Climbing

Mahalangur Range
Height: 6186m. - (20,290 ft)
Latitude: 86º 56’ 03”.N
Longitude: 27º 57’ 45”.E
First Ascent: Franco - British team 2003. UK.
Trip Duration: 17 Days
Normal Ascent Route: South west Ridge - Rock, Scramble/Ice Climbing
Caravan Route: Lukla - Namche Bazar - Machhermo - Gokyo Lake - Renjo-La Pass - Phari Lapcha Peak Base Camp - Lukla

 Kyazo Ri Peak (6186m.) peak is a semi technical peak situated in the Everest region of Nepal. Unlike other trekking peaks like Lobuche EastKyazo Ri also known as Kyazo Ri (6186m.) peak is a semi technical peak situated in the Everest region of Nepal. Unlike other trekking peaks like Lobuche East or Island Peak, Kyajo Ri climbing route actually ends on the summit. Moreover, trekking through the Everest region offers astounding mountain views and an opportunity to get a glimpse of the lifestyle of the world famous climbers (the Sherpas).

We have given twi route trekking itinerary start journey begins in Kathmandu followed by trekking in the amazing hilly and mountainous regions of Nepal. Next, we achieve our ultimate objective of summiting Kyajo Ri before heading back to Kathmandu to end an excellent trip to the Himalayas. Our criteria have been pretty limiting, and climb after climb, summit after summit, though we have enjoyed them all, usually there is some serious downside to any particular route. In the Khumbu, which we have visited often, we think that Kyajo Ri comes closest to our ideal.

Difficulty:
Mt. Kyajo Ri Peak, Kyajo Ri Climbing, Kyajo Base Camp, Kyajo Ri Information, Kyazo Ri Itinerary,This is a difficult expedition. There is significant technical climbing at high altitude. Summit day is very long and tiring. The approach trek to base Camp is not overly difficult and is suitable for experienced off-trail hikers in good condition. In difficulty it is probably comparable to the Cho La route, or to treks that cross the Renjo La, and perhaps a bit harder than the Kala Pattar trek near Everest Base Camp.

Base Camp to Camp - 1 is a long way, and a hard day over rough, but non-technical terrain. Camp 2 is not so far from Camp 1 but the intervening climbing is occasionally over difficult tall us and giant boulders.

From Camp - 2 we are able to move together a short way, then soon begin belayed climbing. We climb about 12 pitches of steep snow and ice, to perhaps 65° in steepness for one or two pitches just below the summit. We will belay, lower and rappel the same route on descent. Overall, the difficulty is comparable to the summit day on Ama Dablam. Kyajo Ri is significantly harder physically and technically than Lobuche East-East or Island Peak.

Outline Peak Itinerary: A
Hotel/Lodges/Camping
17 Days Trek/Climbing
Grade: Strenuous
Meals: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 4 Nights KTM and 16 Nights Lodges/Camping
Recommended Season: Spring and Autumn

Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff  then transfer to Hotel. (1300m.-4264 ft)
Day 02: Free in Kathmandu for preparation and briefing climbing.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2,800m.-9,184 ft) - Phakding (2,652m.-8,700 ft): O/N at teahouse Lodge. 3-4 hrs
Day 04: Phakding -Namche Bazaar (3,440m.-11,283 ft): 5-6 hrs
Day 05: Namche Bazaar (3,440m.-11,283 ft): Acclimatization Day
Day 06: Namche Bazaar, Dole (4,110m.-13,152 ft): 5-6 hrs
Day 07: Dole - Machhermo (4,470m.-14,663 ft): 4-5 hrs
Day 08: Machharmo - Gokyo (4800m.-15,744 ft): 3-4 hrs
Day 09: Gokyo  to Lungden (4,600m.-15,088ft) via Renjo La pass (5,435m.-17,827ft): 5-6 hrs
Day 10: Trek down to Thame and Mende (3736m.-12,255 ft): 5-6 hrs
Day 11: Trek to Kyajo Ri Base Camp (4550m.-14925 ft): 5-6 hrs
Day 12: Rest day At Kyajo Ri Base Camp.
Day 13: Trek to Camp 1 (5200m.- 17056 ft): 4-5 hrs
Day 14: Trek to Camp 2 (5700m.-18696 ft): 5-6 hrs
Day 15: Kyajo Ri (6186m.) Summit Day and Back to Camp 2: 10-12 hrs
Day 16: Trek back to Kyajo Ri Base Camp: 7-8 hrs
Day 17: Base Camp to Namche Bazaar: 5-6 hrs
Day 18: Namche Bazaar to Lukla and overnight at Hotel: 6-7 hrs
Day 19: Early fly back to Kathmandu then transfer to Hotel.
Day 20: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 21: Transfer to Airport for your onward Journey.

Optional - Peak Itinerary: B Via Lukla - Namche Bazar - Thame - Mende - Kyazo Ri Base Camp - Namche Bazar -  Lukla
Hotel/Lodges/Camping
15 Days Trek/Climbing
Grade: Strenuous
Meals: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 4 Nights KTM and 14 Nights Lodges/Camping
Recommended Season: Spring and Autumn

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfers to Hotel.
Day 02: Free day for preparation and official briefing.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2800m.), trek to Phakding, 2652m. then overnight at teahouse Lodge.
Day 04: Phakding – Namche Bazaar, 3440m.
Day 05: Namche Bazaar Rest for Acclimatization.
Day 06: Namche Bazaar – Thame 3800m.
Day 07: Thame - Mende, 3740m. (12,270ft).
Day 08: Mende- Kyazo Ri Peak Base Camp 4550m. (14,900ft).
Day 09: Rest and preparation day at Base Camp.
Day 10 -13: Set up High Camp at 5350m. (17,550ft.). Climbing Period.
Day 14: Ascent Summit Kyazo Ri Peak (6186m.) then back to Base Camp.
Day 15: Clean the Base Camp and trek back to Namche bazaar.
Day 16: Namche Bazaar – Lukla and transfer to Tea House Lodge.
Day 17: Lukla – Kathmandu by scheduled flight and transfer to Hotel.
Day 18: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 19: Last Minute, transfers to airport for your onward journey.

Detailed Expedition Itinerary
Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff  then transfer to Hotel. (1300m.-4264 ft)
Upon your arrival at Kathmandu airport (TIA), you will be greeted by a representative from Cultural Treks & Expedition. After completing your custom formalities (Visa, etc), you will be transferred to Hotel. After check in, you can take a rest, hang around in the city, visit our office - it all depends on your interests and condition. In the evening we will organize welcome dinner at an excellent traditional Nepalese Restaurant where you will enjoy a Nepalese cultural program as well as a fine meal. Included meal: Dinner (D)

Day 02: Kathmandu free and Preparation for Trekking & Climbing
After breakfast, you will get to the office and discuss about equipments checked by the climbing leader, prepare things as per need, introduce with fellow participants, and after Cultural Treks & Expedition briefs you about the trip, you get a chance to ask questions you might have regarding the trip. Overnight at hotel. Breakfast (B)

Day 03: Kathmandu - Lukla (2,800m.-9,184 ft)- Phakding (2,652m.-8,700 ft): 3-4 hrs
Early morning, after breakfast we get transferred to domestic airport to fly to Lukla. After an adventurous 40 minute flight above breathtaking green and white mountains, we reach Tenzing-Hillary Airport at Lukla. This is one of the most beautiful air routes in the world culminating in a dramatic landing on a hillside surrounded by high mountains peaks. At the airport, we meet our other crew members. We get time to stroll around while the guide divides and manages baggage to be carried by porters. We start our trek through the prosperous village of Lukla until we reach Phakding. To assist in acclimatization, we only have a short hike today. However, if interested in additional activities we can take a side trip to a nearby monastery. Overnight in Phakding. Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (B,L,D).

Day 04: Phakding -Namche Bazaar (3,440m.-11,283 ft): 5-6 hrs
The walk today is pleasant with few short uphill and downhill with multiple crossings over Dudh Koshi River and magnificent view of Mt. Thamserku (6,608m.-21,675ft) from the Benkar village. Cross some more bridges and reach the entrance of Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo, where our trekking permits are checked in order to keep record of trekkers and local trekking staffs as well. A descent and a gradual walk brings us to Jorsale, the last village before Namche Bazaar. Enjoying the walk along the river bed, we reach Hillary Suspension Bridge. As we climb uphill towards Namche Bazaar, close-up and magnificent sight of Kwangde Peak, its sister peaks, Kusum Kangaru, Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Tawache, and many other fabulous mountains look dominating the sky. We stop at the Chautara here to admire the view. Finally, we reach the colorful village of Namche Bazaar, the main gateway of Khumbu region. Overnight at Namche Bazaar. (B,L,D)

Day 05: Namche Bazaar (3,440m.-11,283 ft): Acclimatization Day
This is first scheduled 'acclimatization' day for this expedition. Health experts always recommend us to stay active and moving during the rest day too instead of being idle. Namche Bazzar is the main center of the Everest (Khumbu) region and has government offices, ATMs, internet cafes, shops, restaurants, a bakery and a colorful market each Friday evening and Saturday. If we trek a few hundred vertical feet during the day, it will help us to properly acclimatize. Visit the Tourist Visitor Center near the Sagarmatha National Park headquarters and observe an assortment of things related to the first Everest climbers, Sherpa culture and learn about the various plant and animal life of the Everest region. We also take an interesting side trip up to Khumjung and climb up to famous airstrip at Syangboche. Visit Hillary School which is at the same site. After having lunch and spending some time in Khumjung, walk back down to Namche Bazar. Overnight in Namche Bazaar. (B,L,D)

Day 06: Namche Bazaar, Dole (4,110m.-13,152 ft): 5-6 hrs
We climb steeply out of Namche Bazaar up to Kyangjuma Village from where we can enjoy outstanding views of Thamserku, Katenga, and Ama Dablam. Most strenuous ascent of the day is obviously to pass the Mong La, a very charming place perched on the spur of Mt. Khumbila. An ancient historical Chorten stands at the centre of the settlement of Mong-La. We stop at the top of Mong-La to admire the grandstand views of surrounding snow-capped mountains and valleys while we have our lunch. The most outstanding feature of the trail today is the abundance of plant and animal vegetation including wildflowers and Rhododendrons. Spotting wild lives like pheasants, mountain goats, and the elusive musk deer while on the way is not unusual. Through forests, some waterfalls and bridges, we reach Dole; a small place with few teahouses. Overnight in Dole. (B,L,D).

Day 07: Dole - Machhermo (4,470m.-14,663 ft): 4-5 hrs
Firstly, we climb steadily up through a scenic ridge above the Dole and the trail climbs via Lhabarma at 4220m. to Luza at 4360m. The path is steep in most places as we pass through thorny bushes up to Lhabarma. Offering us good views of Cho Oyu, Kantega, and Thamserku the trail takes us through many summer settlements and a charming hamlet of Luza (4360m.). While we ascend from Luza, the Dudh Koshi valley is deep like a canyon with its sheer sides. Walking along the hill side above thundering Dudkoshi passing through some small hamlets and through sandy spurs, we reach Machhermo. The beautiful stream flowing down from the Kyajo Ri and Phari Lapche mountains runs through the middle of village before draining into the Dudh Koshi. We visit the Himalayan Rescue Hospital here for a lecture regarding the altitude sickness, its precaution, and primary treatment. Precaution regarding altitude sickness is vital while trekking in the high altitude region, however our guides are quite knowledgeable about this. Overnight in Machhermo. (B,L,D)

Day 08: Machharmo - Gokyo (4800m.-15,744 ft): 3-4 hrs
Today, we climb through a ridge Chorten from where we can see fabulous view of both down the valley and of the Mt. Kangtega, Thamserku, and northern part to the Cho-Oyu (8153m). Beyond the ridge the valley widens as the trail passes through a Chorten and reaches Pangka (4480 m) after some gentle walk. Phangka is the palace where an avalanche in 1995 killed 40 people. We descend to the river bank before beginning to climb up to the terminal moraine of the Ngozamba Glacier. It is a steep climb on the moraine. After crossing an iron bridge over an stream the trial levels out as it follows the valley past the first lake, known as Longpongo at 4690m, where we get chance to observe the Lama footprints on a stone. At the sight of the second lake, Taboche Tsho we become mesmerized by the shimmering turquoise blue sheet of water sparkling in the sun. Little ahead of the second lake, we reach the third lake, the two linked by a surging stream. Gokyo village stands by the third lake and Cho-Oyu Mountain as a backdrop sets an amazing spectacular sight here. After lunch, we explore around the third Lakes, Dudh Pokhari. We spend night in a teahouse with comfortable bedrooms. Overnight in Gokyo. (B,L,D)

Day 09: Gokyo  to Lungden (4,600m.-15,088ft) via Renjo La pass (5,435-17,827ft): 5-6 hrs
The complicated day crossing via Renjo La pass. From Gokyo, we head west crossing the high pass of the Renjo La at (5411m.-17,750 ft). After early breakfast we head towards the lake back and climb up to the top of Renjo la. We continue down the west side of the pass, descending all the way down to Lungden at (4500m.-14,760 ft). During the walk can be seen the best view of Himalayan range from way to Renjo-La and on descent can be seen the view of Kyajo Ri and arrive at Lungden for overnight. (B,L,D)

Day 10: Trek down to Thame & Mende (3736m.-12,255 ft): 5-6 hrs
Today, we make a short walk of about 2 hrs descending to Thame village one of the beautiful Sherpa village western part of Khumbu and adjoining part of Rolwaling Himalayan ranges. Thame is popular town for Sherpa Climbers and the beautiful Monastery as well best view of Himalayan Ranges. From Thame we turn east, heading back in the direction of Namche Bazar and almost completing an entire circumnavigation of Kyajo Ri. We will camp in Mende (3740m.-12,270 ft) a small town at the entrance of the Kyajo Drangka. (B,L,D)

Day 11: Trek to Kyajo Ri base camp (4550m.-14925 ft): 5-6 hrs
Above Mende we leave the main trails and follow a faint yak trail up over a couple of passes to enter the Kyajo Drangka; the isolated broad valley south of Kyajo Ri. Enjoy the views of Mt. Thamserku, Khumbila, Kusum Kangaru, Kwangde, Pachharmo and surrounding Himalayan ranges. Kyajo Ri Base Camp is set up between the rocky mountain with flat ground in a side of small river. This is one of the summer yak pasture and a nice place to set up camp. (B,L,D)

Day 12: Rest Day At Kyajo Ri Base Camp
This is an important phase of the expedition. Proper acclimatization is essential before the summit push.  We take opportunity to hike around to acclimatize and to take pictures. If the weather is good we can take beautiful pictures from Kyajo Ri Base Camp. Another intention to rest here today is also for preparing and arranging the climbing equipments for the Kyajo Ri peak climbing. Overnight at Camp 1. (B,L,D)

Day 13: Trek to Camp 1 (5200m.-17056 ft): 4-5 hrs
The ascent to Camp 1 at over 5200 meters from base camp at around 4,600 meters involves a 2 hour hike over a grassy spur and boulders. After half an hour walk the trails follows the upward rocky section with a lot of boulders and skid pebbles. Another 3 hours steep walk then get to the Camp 1. Enjoy the scenery of Kyajo Ri and small glacial lakes. (B,L,D)

Day 14: Trek to Camp 2 (5700m.-18696 ft): 5-6 hrs
Camp 1 to Camp 2 involve some technical climbing over mixed face slopes up to 40 degrees as well as negotiating through the glacier and rock. Camp 2 lies near the glacier. We can see the climbing route that we will attempt the next day. We pitch our camp near big glacier lake. Camp 2 is located at about 5700m/18,700ft. If the weather favors us, we may also get pleasing sunlight during the day. Overnight at Camp 2. (B,L,D)

Day 15: Summit Day and Back to Camp 2: 10-12 hrs
Our summit day begins in the early morning, at about 3:00 am. After light breakfast we start to climb though the rocky part with boulders and after a walk reach at Glacier part from where it's fairly hard to climb. Here the surface steepens up to about 75 degrees, and we climb snow and ice on the Southwest Ridge. There is one short rock section but primarily the climbing is on snow and blue ice. The sharp summit is a narrow wedge of snow. After spending some time in celebrations and taking pictures on the summit, we return back to Camp 1. As you know that we are taking south east route and our leader will take you up to the summit and on the return back we should back to camp 2.(B,L,D)

Day 16: Contingency Day
There is no such guarantee that we can get quite a favorable weather on our planned day for the summit (day 16). So we keep this day as a contingency in case if we are unable to summit the Kyajo Ri Peak on day 16 due to bad weather condition or some other reasons. If weather gets exceptionally unfavorable, we would have to wisely postpone the program of summiting the peak on day 16 for toady (Day 17). Sometimes somebody in the group may get some problems in acclimatizing well enough to make the ascent; the day can be used in that condition too. If the trip goes smoothly, we do not need this spare day. (B,L,D)

Day 17: Trek back to Kyajo Ri Base Camp: 7-8 hrs
We have made it! Today we return back to Kyajo Ri Base Camp, and celebrate the success of our trip. Overnight at camp. (B,L,D)

Day 18: Base Camp to Namche: 5-6 hrs
Clean the Base Camp and trek back to Namche bazaar. After a great success we return back the same way via Mende, Thame to  Namche. It takes about 5-6 hrs from BC to Namche Bazar. Overnight at Namche. (B,L,D)

Day 19: Trek Namche to Lukla: 6-7 hrs
The trail descends steeply downward so we need to walk slowly and under control as our shaky legs continuously battle the rocky terrain. After crossing the suspension bridges over the fast following Dud Koshi and its tributaries the trail becomes more level and natural. Although we are traveling the same route down, we feel completely different views. We snap a mixture of open plains, rhododendron and pine forests, and in the distance snow covered peaks. Overnight in Phakding. We feel the Sherpa villages' impressive faith in Buddhism and culture of prayer stones and prayers flag while we walk through the villages. Overnight in Lukla. (B,L,D)

Day 20: Fly back to Kathmandu
We fly back to Kathmandu after our long mountain journey. The flight time to Kathmandu is schedule for morning normally because of the wind in the afternoon.  However, sometimes the flight may be delayed due to bad weather and other reasons.  After arrival in Kathmandu, you will be transferred to your hotel. You can rest and relax throughout the day in the hotel. If interested to take some gifts from Nepal for friends and relatives, you can visit to some nearby shops or venture out in Thamel for typical Nepalese goods which can be assisted by our guides or you can do it yourself too. If fascinated to explore some other areas of Kathmandu you can do that today.  We will be hosting a fantastic celebration dinner together for successful completion of the Kyajo Ri Expedition. (B,L,D)

Day 21: Transfer to Airport for your onward Journey. (Final Departure).
Free and final departure day. There is nothing to do but trade emails with your travel companions and organize your photos. If you have more time you can do some shopping or sightseeing. Approximately 3 hours before your scheduled flight a representative from Cultural Treks & Expedition will take you to the airport. On your way home you'll have plenty of time to plan your next adventure in the wonderful country of Nepal. (B)

Expedition Cost in group joining basis; (Require minimum 2 person in group)
USD 2000 Per Person. (Spring season)
USD 1950 Per Person. (Autumn season)
USD 1850 Per Person. (Winter/Summer season)

Package Includes:

  • Land transportation by Car, Van, Hiace, tourist & local Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport & trekking pick up & drop).
  • 4 Nights Accommodation in Kathmandu at bed & breakfast plan as per given itinerary.
  • Transportation of all food and climbing equipments to Base Camp & back.
  • Kyazo Ri Peak permit fee.
  • Full board basis during the trekking in Teahouse Lodge and tented camp.
  • All kitchen equipments; kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent at the Base Camp.
  • 1 Trekking + Climbing guide, Cook, Kitchen boys and necessary Porter.
  • Base camp tents for members and staff.
  • Climbing Guide equipment charges and his daily wages as well as Insurance and all crews daily wages.
  • Per Person 15 KG. Equipment’s luggage, barrels allowed till to Base Camp.
  • National Park Conservation Fee.
  • Garbage deposit.
  • Visa extension.
  • Air fare: Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu and domestic airport tax with Cargo fees.
  • Agency taxes and service charges.

Package Excludes:

  • Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
  • Airfare from/to your country.
  • Nepal entry visa fee. (Can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
  • Hotel after 5 nights stay in Kathmandu.
  • Drinks except tea and coffee. (Hot water, mineral water and cold drinks is not included)
  • Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
  • Walki -Takie permit & Satellite phone permit.
  • Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical and emergency evacuation.
  • Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone, etc.
  • International airport departure tax.
  • Tips and climbing bonus.

Cultural Treks & Expedition offers personal equipment rentals for climber, who have limited cargo allowance with their airfare or, do not wish to purchase expensive expedition grade gear but rent it instead. Climber purchasing Base Camp Services only may choose to hire or, purchase high camp equipment. Please let us know in advance prior to your arrival so that we can meet your needs. The quoted cost are for the duration of the expedition and we provide original North Face, Marmot or, Ozark company brand tent only.

Equipment Rental or Purchase Price List:

Item Rentle Cost in USD Purchase Cost in USD
Expedition Tent USD 50.00 USD 300.00
Day Backpack (Rucksack -Small) USD 30.00 USD 150.00
Day Backpack (Rucksack -Large) USD 50.00 USD 300.00
Gas Stove USD 20.00 USD 100.00
Oxygen Bottle USD 350.00 USD 500.00
Oxygen mask and Regulator USD 250.00 USD 900.00
Sleeping Bag USD 50.00 USD 400.00
Down Jacket USD 50.00 USD 300.00
High Camp Goose Down Jacket USD 100.00 USD 500.00