Nirekha Peak (6,186m.) Climbing
Height: 6,186m. ( ft)
First Ascent: The first ascent was done by Matt Fioretti and Greg Valentine in April 2003.
Trip Duration: 21 Days
Normal Ascent Route: W-face, Scramble/Ice Climbing
Caravan Route: Lukla - Namche Bazar - Machhermo - Gokyo Lake - Gokyo Ri - Nirekha Peak Base Camp - Namche Bazar - Lukla
Nirekha peak is located in the same chain as the Lobuche summits, just E of the Cho La Col (not to be confused with the famous Cho La pass that is only a few hundred meters away) at Mahalangur range, deep in the Himalayas, close to the Tibetan border and hidden among the well-known giants of Mount Cho-Oyu, Everest and Cholatse peak. It is recently opened peak for climbers. The climb itself is relatively straightforward, though it does require ice-axe, crampons and main rope and fixed rope sections. It is a very doable climb for anyone in good shape and with a desire for high adventure. The normal ascent to the Nirekha Peak is a great and - depending on the conditions - difficult climb. Only experienced climbers should attempt this route, though it is partially saved with fixed ropes. The summit consists of two summit pyramids. It is unclear which one is higher. Clearly the N summit is easier, but requires crossing a difficult crevasse, while the S summit requires one pitch in steep (50°) ice. Nirekha peak has two routes to climb as one from Kanchung peak base camp and another from Lake base camp. The ascent from the Kanchung peak base Camp side is to be preferred on this itinerary since it is easier and shorter. The glacier to the Cho La Col on the Kanchung side is easy with only a few mostly harmless crevasses. The ascent is mostly in ice and snow, and is comparable to big alpine routes such as the Monch or Bernina. Despite of the relatively small height difference, it demands an excellent condition and acclimatization.
This is quite technical but from the top it is one of the best scenery of the Himalayan world. From the top you’ll have an opportunity to see the best view of many high mountains as Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cho-Oyu and other surrounding Himalayan ranges.