Nirekha Peak (6,186m.) Climbing

Mahalangur Range
Height: 6,186m. (          ft)
Latitude: 27°58'38"N
Longitude: 86°45'48"E
First Ascent: The first ascent was done by Matt Fioretti and Greg Valentine in April 2003.
Trip Duration: 21 Days
Normal Ascent Route: W-face, Scramble/Ice Climbing
Caravan Route: Lukla - Namche Bazar - Machhermo - Gokyo Lake - Gokyo Ri - Nirekha Peak Base Camp - Namche Bazar - Lukla

Nirekha-peak climbing, Nirekha Base Camp, Nirekha Peak Information, Nirekha Summit, Nirekha Itinerray, Nepal Nirekha PeakNirekha peak is located in the same chain as the Lobuche summits, just E of the Cho La Col (not to be confused with the famous Cho La pass that is only a few hundred meters away) at Mahalangur range, deep in the Himalayas, close to the Tibetan border and hidden among the well-known giants of Mount Cho-Oyu, Everest and Cholatse peak. It is recently opened peak for climbers. The climb itself is relatively straightforward, though it does require ice-axe, crampons and main rope and fixed rope sections. It is a very doable climb for anyone in good shape and with a desire for high adventure. The normal ascent to the Nirekha Peak is a great and - depending on the conditions - difficult climb. Only experienced climbers should attempt this route, though it is partially saved with fixed ropes. The summit consists of two summit pyramids. It is unclear which one is higher. Clearly the N summit is easier, but requires crossing a difficult crevasse, while the S summit requires one pitch in steep (50°) ice. Nirekha peak has two routes to climb as one from Kanchung peak base camp and another from Lake base camp. The ascent from the Kanchung peak base Camp side is to be preferred on this itinerary since it is easier and shorter. The glacier to the Cho La Col on the Kanchung side is easy with only a few mostly harmless crevasses. The ascent is mostly in ice and snow, and is comparable to big alpine routes such as the Monch or Bernina. Despite of the relatively small height difference, it demands an excellent condition and acclimatization.

This is quite technical but from the top it is one of the best scenery of the Himalayan world. From the top you’ll have an opportunity to see the best view of many high mountains as Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cho-Oyu and other surrounding Himalayan ranges.

Peak Climbing Itinerary: A -  Via Gokyo Lake Side
Hotels/Lodges/Camping
17 Days Trek/Climbing
Grade: Strenuous
Meals: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 4 Nights Kathmandu and 16 Nights Lodges/Camping
Recommended Season: Spring & Autumn

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu free preparation and briefing at Hotel.
Day 03: Early Fly to Lukla 2840m. then trek to Phakding 2,652m. 3Hrs.
Day 04: Phakding – Namche Bazaar. (3,440m.) 6 hrs.
Day 05: Rest day for acclimatization at Namche Bazaar.
Day 06: Namche Bazaar – Dole (4,040m.). 6 hrs.
Day 07: Dole – Machhermo (4,410m.) 5 hrs.
Day 08: Machhermo – Gokyo (4,750m.) 6 hrs.
Day 09: Hiking to Gokyo Ri Peak (5,360m.), back to Gokyo. 5 hrs.
Day 10: Gokyo – Thangnag (Dragnag) (4700m.). 3 hrs.
Day 11: Thangnag (Dragnag) – Nirekha Base Camp (4950m.) 6 Hrs. Tented Camp
Day 12: Set up  Base Camp and climbing preparation.
Day 13: Nirekha Base Camp to High Camp. Tented Camp 5 Hrs.
Day 14: High Camp to Nirekha Peak summit (6186m.) and back to Base Camp.
Day 15: Reserve day for Back pack and clean Base Camp
Day 16: Nirekha Peak Base Camp - Dole.
Day 17: Dole - Namche Bazar.
Day 18: Namche Bazaar – Lukla and over night at Teahouse Lodge. 6-7 Hrs.
Day 19: Lukla – Kathmandu by scheduled flight then transfer to Hotel.
Day 20: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 21: Last minute, transfer to airport for your onward journey.

Optional - Peak Climbing Itinerary: B Via Chola Pass side
Hotels/Lodges/Camping
17 Days Trek/Climbing
Grade: Strenuous
Meals: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 4 Nights Kathmandu and 16 Nights Lodges/Camping
Recommended Season: Spring and Autumn

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport, meet our staff then transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu free preparation and briefing at Hotel.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla 2840m. then trek to Phakding 2,652m. 3Hrs.
Day 04: Phakding – Namche Bazaar. (3,440m.) 6 hrs.
Day 05: Rest day for acclimatization at Namche Bazaar.
Day 06: Namche Bazaar – Dole (4,040m.). 6 hrs.
Day 07: Dole – Machhermo (4,410m.) 5 hrs.
Day 08: Machhermo – Gokyo (4,750m.) 6 hrs.
Day 09: Hiking to Gokyo Ri Peak (5,360m.), back to Gokyo. 5 hrs.
Day 10: Gokyo – Thangnag (Dragnag) (4700m.). 3 hrs.
Day 11: Thangnag (Dragnag) – Nirekha Base Camp (4950m.) 6 Hrs. Tented Camp
Day 12: Set up  Base Camp and climbing preparation.
Day 13: Nirekha Base Camp to High Camp. Tented Camp 5 Hrs.
Day 14: High Camp to Nirekha Peak summit (6186m.) and back to Base Camp.
Day 15: Clean Base Camp - Chola Pass 5368m. - Dzonglha 4830m.
Day 16: Dzonglha - Tengboche (3860m.)
Day 17: Tengboche - Namche - Monjo (2835m.)
Day 18: Monjo – Lukla and over night at Teahouse Lodge. 6-7 Hrs.
Day 19: Lukla – Kathmandu by scheduled flight then transfer to Hotel.
Day 20: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 21: Last minute, transfer to airport for your onward journey.

Peak Climbing Cost:
USD 3398 Per Person. (If 1 person in group)
USD 2363 Per Person. (If 2 person in group)
USD 2050 Per Person. (If 3 person in group)
USD 1895 Per Person. (If 4 person in group)
USD 1755 Per Person. (If 5 person in group)

Package Includes:

  • Land transportation by Car, Van, Hiace and tourist Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport and trekking pick up and drop).
  • 4 Night’s hotel accommodation in Kathmandu at Bed & Breakfast basis.
  • 3 Major meals; B/L/D (by Lodge menu) and accommodation at best available teahouse lodge and tented camp during the trek en-route.
  • 1 English speaking equipped trekking + climbing guide, Cook and necessary Porters with their daily wages and insurance.
  • Life insurance for all support crews and their daily wages.
  • Climbing guide Equipment Charges as well as for crews.
  • Per member 15 Kg. luggage allow while in the trekking.
  • Snow bars and ropes for the climbing as well as tented camp while on climbing to Nirekha Peak.
  • Trekking, Peak Permits, National Park permits and garbage deposit fees.
  • Air Ticket: KTM/Lukla/KTM with airport tax and luggage cargo fees.
  • Medical Kit Box for Nepali support crews.
  • All official taxes and service charge.

Package Excludes:

  • Personal transportation except above programs.
  • Major meals lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
  • Personal trekking & Peak climbing gears etc.
  • High tent, high food and sleeping bag.
  • Gammo Bag for the life saving device, incase of altitude sickness for Member.
  • Personal Nature expenses.
  • Emergency evacuation (If incase).
  • Drinks except tea and coffee.
  • Airfare: To and from your country.
  • Nepal entry, re-entry visa fees and international airport departure taxes.
  • Personal travel insurance.
  • Tips for trekking crews.

Cultural Treks & Expedition offers personal equipment rentals for climber, who have limited cargo allowance with their airfare or, do not wish to purchase expensive expedition grade gear but rent it instead. Climber purchasing Base Camp Services only may choose to hire or, purchase high camp equipment. Please let us know in advance prior to your arrival so that we can meet your needs. The quoted cost are for the duration of the expedition and we provide original North Face, Marmot or, Ozark company brand tent only.

Equipment Rental or Purchase Price List:

Item Rentle Cost in USD Purchase Cost in USD
Expedition Tent USD 50.00 USD 300.00
Day Backpack (Rucksack -Small) USD 30.00 USD 150.00
Day Backpack (Rucksack -Large) USD 50.00 USD 300.00
Gas Stove USD 20.00 USD 100.00
Oxygen Bottle USD 350.00 USD 500.00
Oxygen mask and Regulator USD 250.00 USD 900.00
Sleeping Bag USD 50.00 USD 400.00
Down Jacket USD 50.00 USD 300.00
High Camp Goose Down Jacket USD 100.00 USD 500.00