International Shishapangma Expedition-Zhangmu
Fixed Departure: 11 April 2018
Latitude: 28° 21″N
Longitude: 85° 47″E
Trip Duration: 39 Days
Normal Ascent Route: Normal
Grade: Strenuous High
Caravan Route: Kathmandu - Zhangmu - Nyalam - Shishapangma Base Camp - Shishapangma Advance Base Camp
Mt. Shishapangma is one of the beautiful mountain of Tibet, which lies in its autonomous region, known by the Tibetans as “the big grassy field", it is an extremely beautiful and provides awe inspiring vistas along the Himalayan range. Only very few people in the world have an idea about the Shisha Pangma before Chinese opened Tibet to the western summiteers in 1978 A.D. The Tibetans regard it as the holy mountain. It is the youngest among fourteen mountains above 8000m. that lies in high Himalayan ranges of Tibet and Nepal.
It is simultaneous the original route as followed by the first western expedition from the year 1978 despite missing larger technical difficulties stunning adventure can be taken, which lets mounting a 8000 meter expect nevertheless with the necessary weather luck and the support of some experienced Sherpas.
Shishapangma Climbing Route: Groups meet in Kathmandu initially where a few days are spent in preparation before commencing the journey along the Kathmandu Lhasa highway to Nyalam the first major settlement in Tibet situated at 3750 meters. We spend two nights under canvass for acclimatization (day hikes to higher altitude). On our third day in Tibet we proceed along the friendship highway for further 2 hours or so crossing the high pass of Lablung-La 5070 m. soon after the pass we turn left and follow a grass track which leads to Shisha Pangma Chinese Base Camp (approximately 4 hours). The following day is spent in preparation for the climb to come. There should time for some day excursions around the Base Camp. The next day, soon after breakfast we head up to our Middle Base Camp and next day advance Base Camp. We will spend either 2 or 3 nights here depending on group needs. The following days are spent attempting the summit and returning to Base Camp.
Camp 01-6,730m. – After 6-7 hours walk we reach in camp 2 through crossing many snow slopes by fixing ropes in the places of crevassed.
Camp 02-7,045m. – After 5-6 hours we reach camp 3 through steep ascent leading to very gentle ground below the North West ridge.
Camp 03-7,400m. – From Camp 3, it takes 9-12 hours to reach on the summit. The situation of the groups/climbers’ progress and the condition of their physical fitness and also the favorable condition of the weather depends the climbing ahead.
The North West normal route to Shisha Pangma takes us up easy angled snow slopes up to 35 degrees with one steeper section. The necessary lines will be fixed and placed on the steeper or crevassed sections.
Summit of Shishapangma: The first 7400 meters is fairly straight forward, little more than a steady push to camp II. The following 700 meters requires commitment as we traverse the North Ridge which gradually leads us to the summit. Mt. Shishapangma climbing provides brilliant mountains views especially of the Jugal and Langtang Himal ranges and Tibetan plateau. Some times the extra additional days are also required for acclimatization at different places until climbers succeeds the summit. If the climber succeeds the mountaineering early than the scheduled tenure they may leave the base camp before the prescribed time as well. The next day, we spend cleaning Base Camp (over night) before our return journey to Kathmandu.