Mt. Lhakpa Ri Expedition - Zhangmu
Autumn 2017
Entry/Exit: Zhangmu
Fixed Departure: 07 September, 2017
Height: 7043m. (23,114 feet)
Latitude: 28° 2' 17'' N
Longitude: 86° 58' 15'' E
Entry/Exit: Zhangmu
Trip Duration: 32 Days
Normal Ascent Route: Normal
Grade: Strenuous High
Caravan Route: Kathmandu - Zhangmu - Nyalam - Tingri - Lhakpa Ri Base Camp - Advance BC
Mt. Lhakpa Ri, a high altitude trek and most attainable 7,000m peak in the world. And an ideal objective, remarkably positioned just across the glacier from Everest. It shares the historic route up the East Rongbuk Glacier and is climbable by a relatively safe and straightforward route. It is just over the milestone altitude of 7,000m, making it higher than anything outside Asia and is probably the most climbable 7,000m. peak in the world.
Trek through valleys filled with ripening barley and herds of yaks and goats to Everest Base Camp. And a steady achievable trek through stunning glaciers and peaks to ABC (Advanced Base Camp), and Lhakpa Ri (which must be the worlds most achievable 7000m peak) right there. This expedition reverses the route taken my George Mallory on his 1921 reconnaissance expedition to Mt. Everest. We must trek over several days from Tingri which means you'll be in good shape to enjoy Rongbuk Monastery and Everest Base Camp. En route there are yak herders camps and grain farms, moors and meadows and unimagined green. We weave through the ice pinnacles and cross the Rongbuk glacier to Rabu La where you can peer over into the Kangshung face, at Everest's rarely seen Fantasy Ridge, and at the northern aspect of Makalu. The mountain is one of several peaks that line the east flank of the East Rongbuk Glacier. The summit is a prominent three-sided pyramid which drops to the East Rongbuk Glacier to the west, the Kharta Glacier to the east and falls steeply to a tributary glacier of the Kangshung to the south. The slopes from the Rongbuk and Kharta Glaciers are relatively low angled and are linked by the Lhakpa La pass (6,849m), which is just to the north of Lhakpa Ri. It was from this pass, in 1922, that Mallory and his team mates first saw the East Rongbuk Glacier, an event well documented in mountaineering annals.
The ascent follows a shallow, snow-filled depression on the southwest flank, ascending low-angled snow for 600m, which steeples at mid-height to around 30-35°. After gaining the crest of the ridge close to the Lhakpa La, we turn south and follow the snow ridge to the summit. This trip start from Kathmandu and drive to Kodari after visa formalities work and meeting transportation at friendship Highway, driving along the northern side of the Himalaya range with views of Mt. Shisha Pangma, Mt. Cho Oyu, Mt Everest and numerous other peaks we will reach to Lakpa Ri Base Camp. After finishing expedition we will drive to back to Friendship Bridge at Kodari and continue drive to back to Kathmandu.