International Cho Oyu Expedition - Zhangmu
Spring 2018
Entry/Exit: Zhangmu
Fixed Departure Date: 10 April 2018
Height: 8201m.
Latitude: 28° 06′ N
Longitude: 86° 39′E
Trip Duration: 40 Days
Normal Ascent Route: Normal
Grade: Strenuous High
Caravan Route: Kathmandu - Zhangmu - Nyalam - Tingri - Cho Oyu Base Camp - Cho Oyu Advance base Camp
Mt. Cho-Oyu (Mt. Qowowuyag) is the world’s sixth highest most popular mountain located between Nepal and Tibet (China). The mountain would be the best choice for the mountaineers who want to stand on the summit of 8000 meter peak due to its straight forward climbing with minimal objective danger and less technically demanding. Cho Oyu climbing has the higher rate of success than any other 8000 meter peak climbing in Nepal and Tibet. The mountain was first climbed by Hebert Tichy in 1954. We arrange both the logistic support to ABC and fully guided Cho Oyu expedition.
According to the expedition program our expedition team will drive to Zhangmu via Araniko highway and Friendship Bridge. At the friendship bridge staff from Tibet Mountaineering Association will be waiting for our expedition group. Expedition team members will drive by 4WD land cruiser and expedition equipments will be carried by truck.
After driving 5 days we will have 1 overnight night in Zhangmu, 2 Nights in Nyalam and 2 Nights in Tingri) we will reach Cho-Oyu Base camp. Chinese call it Chinese Base Camp. Cho-Oyu base camp is situated at altitude of 4700 m. We will set camp here in BC for 2 days to acclimatize as well as check expedition equipments once more. 2 days walk take us Cho-Oyu advance base camp. It is situated at altitude of 5700m.
Climbing History of Mt. Cho Oyo
a) First ascent in 1954 (Austrian).
b) 1959: First women's Himalayan expedition to an 8,000m peak. (Two of the women and one Sherpa were killed in two separate avalanches.)
c) Approximately 465 people summit prior to spring, 1995.
d) Approximately two thirds of prior expeditions put at least one person on top.
e) Approximately 17 people killed on the mountain (making it by far the safest of the 8,000m peaks).
Mt. Cho Oyu short note about climbing route:
Camp 1 is at altitude of 6400m.
To reach at Camp 1 we have to walk for about 4-6 hours from advance base camp via an initial walk up the Gyabrag Glacier, up steep screc to a broad snow shoulder.
Camp 2 is at altitude of 7150m
. We have to follow the snow ridge out of Camp 1 to a steep 50 meter ice wall, which provides most challenging climbing on this route. To make this ascent fixed ropes are necessary.
Camp 3 is located at altitude of 7500m.
After 4/5 hours walk from Camp 2 we can reach camp 3. At this altitude there is a tremendous sense of effort to gain further height. The final summit push will be made from this camp and takes about 6-9 hours.